I’d appreciate your advice. However I will try it again with the shellac as I applied it over Minwax wood conditioner last time. So there are so many ways you can take this. Your detailed instructions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much! This will raise the grain for a smoother finish. Zinnser shellac, for instance, is at a 3lb cut. I was doing some random surfing when I came across this discussion about staining maple. I know I tried looking for it again about a year ago and had zero luck. Although the floor looks great, it is hard to keep it clean and over the last few years we find that it makes the house too dark. I want to go as dark as I can but still be able to see the grain. Add however much it takes to get the color you want. We are building new maple kitchen cabinets and have applied two coats of Varathane Oil-based Premium wood stain to give them a deep cherry color. Once it cures, just topcoat with your finish of choice and you’ll be good to go. Required fields are marked *. But this would be a good topic for the future. Can you please tell me what steps I should take to stain these cabinets. Are we crazy? He also said water based stains work well but then you will have to pre-raise the grain. I will post again when I get the result. Hi Ginger. 2nd apply/coat using shellac Bulls Eye SealCoat <— is this the exact brand? Have you tried dyes? The key here is to buy a few different materials and then practice on scrap wood. The color of the Varathane Weathered Gray stain varied widely depending on the wood species. A local guy around here who does finishing for me (when I’m not too cheap or to busy to do it myself) claims to use either a water or alcohol based stain. The legs and chairs are a bit ornate (1930s) and the original finish was a bit darker in the grooves. How difficult would it be to sand and refinish the floors to a lighter finish without a stripey look? The more experience I get in woodworking, the more I realize I need to learn more. I want to use a gel stain which is old master. I really have no idea what the issue is from your description. i want to be able to see the woods natural grain, but also have the wood the color i desire. But the only way to know how much it will help is to try. On maple, some people like the natural blonde/white color and want to maintain it. Did something similar with maple, but used a diluted brown transtint dye in water prior to the shellac. I need all the help I can get. But to answer your other question about what you should have used, my recommendation would have been waterborne finish. Yes, I use behlen dyes exclusively. “cuts” of shellac refer to the dilution. So I would avoid sealing ahead of time. I got a beautiful dinning table made out of knotted line that I tried to stain with Minmax Jacobean. The stainer we used said he could make them look the same. Then move up to 150, 180, and then 220. A bright blue tile floor creates a more soothing effect while yellow tile can help bring out the golden tones in the cabinets. I would really like a durable finish. Im trying differnet methods conditioners as well as stains and yet, I stiil cant figure out why it comes out the way it does. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bru...../202700081 I agree with the sage advice that you gave Darin. So in many cases, steaming the dent is the best way to go. Currently doing glue up on a maple bed frame. :) I don’t think you’ll find a closer match than maple. Now I’ve got two night stands which (i think) look quite nice but still not chocolate. Should I ever be compensated to write, I will make full disclosure. Uhg. And even it it doesn’t fill it completely, I personally think a natural-looking dent is better than a perfectly flat filled surface. My suggestion would be to sand the whole thing down again and just make sure its sanding properly. I have a 96×20 desk I have made from ambrosia maple. But you might try the Prarie Wheat color as that seems to have a little more orange in it. 90% lacquer thinner, 10% lacquer, plus your color. Sapwood color ranges from nearly white, to an off-white cream color, sometimes with a reddish or golden hue. Using a darker, brighter shade on the floor helps anchor the space and allows the light maple of the cabinets to stand out. From what I have been reading on this website, I think the solution to staining my birch/ poplar cabinet in a dark walnut color is to spray a fast drying dye on it. On maple wood, a stain will give your cabinets a more natural and rustic look in the color you choose. When we got in contact with the project manager for the construction company, he told us the company had gone bankrupt. kindly let me know what perticular conditioner to use as well as the type of stain product to go with. Went to Sherwin Williams and picked a stain of Fruitwood for a light finish. Hi there – I stumbled across your site and thought maybe you might have some suggestions for our predicament. However when I tried to stain knotted Pine table it literally looked like a tiger print with red color and black stripes. There certainly may be other finisher tricks that some pros in the industry but from my experience, the best solutions are the two suggestions above. Can you post a link to a picture or email one to me so I can actually see it? Please help me – these stairs are the focal point in my house and they look terrible. It currently has a warm medium finish on it and I’m hoping to stain it to a darker warm colour to match our dining set. I would have rather had a new tool or applied that money to a decent HVLP which I don’t have but would love. Any putty filler is coming out very dark and not the same color as the wood. Unfortunately, there is no “easy” way that I know of. * Sanded using 24, 36, 80, 100 grit paper. “Kitchen Ideas That Work: Creative Design Solutions for Your Home”; Beth Veillette; 2007. I’m almost certain the wood is maple since the cabinet is in almost perfect condition, no dings or scratches, even after over 50 years in public service. is that true? Thanks. Then I recommend using a gel stain. Had I known what a nightmare this was going to be, just beginning woodworking, spending 2000 dollars on tools and wood already for my 10 piece full wall bookcase, I would have spent the extra money on another type of wood. Thank you for making this possible. Would you recommend filling it with wood filler – and again what brand? You can narrate it. thank you very much, Denise. Each wood and each tree has its own behavior, so Darin might need to use a blend of two stains to achieve the final “custom” color he wants. I was able to use a medium brown dye to slightly color the blond toned maple and then applied a 1lb cut of shellac and then my gel stain and the results were what I wanted. It was after this that I asked my “finish guy”. My primary concern is getting dark without blotchiness. Cream or beige tile is a warmer alternative if you prefer a softer option. Maple wood is characterized for its white color and its tight and even grain. The gel stain however, went on much more evenly, and I found it to be very forgiving. Most others say that it’s stupid to try or ask why even do it. My plan was to go dark, but as I researched and read more and more on how to stain maple dark, I became dismayed: it seemed like the entire internet was telling me it was impossible to stain maple dark successfully. which is a rich mahogany. actually, i went ahead and put an even layer of mahogany danish oil and left the piece over night, and did that for 3 nights and it has reached the desired goal. That said, waterborne finishes are getting better and better every year. Durability isn’t much of an issue since the topcoat is what really determines the level of durability. Also, if you have a spray setup, you could always use a dye mixture to get a nice even brown color. Needless to say he couldn’t complete the job. I am also using a pre-swtain wood condioner. For a monochromatic look, install flooring that matches your light maple kitchen cabinets exactly. I actually think Darin’s ‘problem’ may be my solution. Any suggestions? they are beautiful Maple stained, but we are having issues with the stain flaking off or peeling off.. what is causing this? Hi there, We just installed a beautiful new set of stairs in our home. Unfortunately, blotch is easy to prevent and difficult to fix. Should I completely sand it down to the wood? If the stairs are already finished and you aren’t happy with the color, they will need to be stripped, sanded, and then re-finished. You can read about it here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....-them-all/ Use this material before the stain and then follow SW’s instructions. But stripping could help get a great deal of the color out of the wood. I would fill the dent first, sand flush, then hit the surface with your conditioner followed by the stain. The sample is indeed white, but the undertones are now a bile yellow-green. Water-based isn’t the easiest stuff to work with so there will be a learning curve. Our most popular and Best Selling Wood-Colors are shown, along with "more" colors shown by wood to make up our 60 standard Wood Colors . Well once you have a color on the surface, you can’t really go lighter….unless you remove the color. I recommend following the concepts outlined in this video: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....chy-woods/. Hi Ray. OK, And here was my reply: Since you already have these materials on hand, this is what I would use. His only suggestion is to add a third coat of the white stain but I’m concerned that this will give the floor more of an opaque, painted look without solving the issue. Here’s the short version: use gel stain! I mixed this color myself since I couldn’t find the color I wanted which is a dark cherry with a hint of walnut. Still he recommended alcohol; and by the time your finished, you could use a cold one:-D It took care of the blotching problem. I am refinishing a antique wagon wheel bed era 1940-1950’s. Furniture makers have used stains and varnishes for centuries, both to enhance the appearance of the grain and to change the color of the wood. You are definitely doing the right thing though by practicing on scrap. Gel stain, gel stain, gel stain. You also might consider using a chemical stripper just to make sure you get all that finish off the surface. then apply stain <—- I'm still confuse about these water,oil,gel based stain but I'm planning to use polyshade. can you make a video for this? Diluted/missed stain? Make sure you are sanding consistently and if you can, use a random orbit sander. thanks so much! We chose custom, high-end, poplar Am I dreaming? When sanding down through one of my test boards, you could see the dye in the grain move through the wood the deeper you sand. A stain is applied on wood to change the color and protect your cabinets from damage. I want to stain a maple top for a sideboard but now I’m hesitant to start after seeing all of the comments about how difficult it is to stain maple. When you stain those areas will blend right in with the stain & you will not even be able to see them. I dunno we will see! I am renting a sander…that is my start. What do you recommend? You can also pair light maple with mid-toned wood flooring such as oak or hickory, which doesn't contrast as sharply with the cabinets but still adds visual interest to the room. Thanks. so, i did a carving with maple, and usually when i carve i use a danish oil stain kind of thing for my stuff, but seems the grain is too tight to allow any stain to be absorbed into the maple. For those of you who don’t know, maple is a tricky wood to stain. If you’re looking for a single can solution, you might have trouble getting the exact look you want. * Water popped the wood to raise the grain. Unfortunately, I am not well-versed in stripper brands. In order for a finish like that to work properly, you probably don’t want to apply too many coats. The contractor used Minwax, Early American. I’m down to the wood but wanting to match the colour on the banister, trim And pickets which are a golden honey colour. Can we fix it? 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